Today we had the wonderful pleasure of touring the scavi beneath St. Peter's Basilica in Vatican City. We were able to experience multiple layers of history, literally. The tour began in the ancient cemetary primarily dedicated to wealthy pagan families. However, one of the most renowned and respected Christian figures, the apostle Peter, was also buried here. Because of this, Emperor Constantine fulfilled the message of Mark 16:18, "and I tell you that you are Peter, and on this rock I will build my church", by building the first St. Peter's Church in the 4th century. Later, when Pope Julius II commissioned the construction of the current St. Peter's Basilica, the first church was covered over leaving three distinct historical layers, all of which we were fortunate enough to experience.
Our journey began outside the scavi near the place where St. Peter was crucified in 64 CE. He was blamed for the great fire of Rome, as early Christians were common scapegoats for unfortunate events, and chose to be crucified upside down, as he felt unworthy to face death in the same manner as Jesus Christ. As we traveled through the scavi, we discovered the secret Christian tomb within the pagan cemetery. This tomb, believed to have been the final resting place for 12 members of a Christian family, houses the first known depiction of Jesus Christ, disguised as the pagan sun god, Helios. This was a moment when I really had to stop and consider the sacrifices of the first believers of Christ. Their very lives were threatened almost on a daily basis (especially during periods of persecution while Nero reigned), yet they still found ways to carefully but fearlessly display their faith. The experience renewed my appreciation for the religious freedoms we experience today.
The most personally moving moment I experienced came at the end of the tour. In another display of necessary early Christian secrecy, we learned the story of the discovery of St. Peter's remains. While Peter had a known and clearly marked tomb, the early believers feared something might happen to his body in the midst of the persecution. When excavations of the site began in 1939, it was discovered that St. Peter's remains could not be located in the tomb, as the bones held there were of two women, a twenty year old man (Peter was 70 when he died), and a mouse. The location of Peter's body remained a mystery until many years later when a historian was examining the graffiti wall (see Eli's future post An Accidental Pilgrimage). Inside the wall she found the complete skeleton of a 70 year old male missing his feet. Peter's body had been cut down from the cross by his feet. Further scientific evidence has led experts to declare this as the body of St. Peter. Additional evidence comes from the fact that the current alter of St. Peter's Basilica is aligned perfectly over the graffiti wall where the remains were found, a sign that the early Christians moved his body from the original tomb and centers the church on the new "rock".
We were able to see the bones of Peter today. It was a moment that truly took my breath away. It was fascinating to be standing steps away from the body of such an integral figure of my faith. Peter was human, he doubted, denied, and questioned Christ, but still led a life devoted to Him. His example is one I can only hope to emulate in my own spiritual journey. Seeing his remains in person today reminded me of how we may falter and struggle in our faith, but God always has a plan that will make everything align in the end.
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